Oregon made of miles and miles of exposed coast. It get his infinite beauty from his pine forest, the shoreline made of monolith rock surrounded by driftwood, his countless little coves and roads travelling into wild country.
Rolling on the 101, he is searching for a sheltered cove. Out in the middle of the forest, a state park with people carrying surfboards. That might be a good spot he though. After a 1km hike, Lepirate ended up in a small cove facing west, it is sheltered from the wind and the waves are clean.
He surfed until he couldn't feel his hands because of the freezing water. The sun is at his highest with not a single cloud in the sky. He decided to take advantage of being in such a beautiful place to just lay on the beach and enjoy the here and now.
Few hours later, well rested, south, he kept going. His day will end with a second session in a raging sea at Cape Kiwanda where he got barrelled 2-3 times. ‘’If it wasn't for the freezing cold water Oregon would've been a really nice spot to hang around but…’' He ditched his cold water suit and his thermo gloves before leaving Vancouver Island.
The sound of some warm tropical waves is calling him…
More photos in Gallery under West Coast