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South swell and sunrises in El Salvador

January 11, 2017

On the radar, an incoming long period, south, southwest swell will hit the rocky points of El Salvador for few days. Very little daylight time was left on the clock. He really wanted to make it to the coast to hit it first thing in the morning. Somethings worth pushing yourself…

 

 

10 hours later, the some 400 km ended up in pitch black riding. The weak light beam of The Beast enlightening the way down. A rocky and bumpy road is funneling him down between two walls made of boulders. Which the latest are most likely coming from the point he’ll be soon surfing. He has no idea what the setup looks like, has usual. He just heard from someone that it should work just fine with this promising swell. With The Beast park on a patch of sand near a restaurant, he is looking at the lines of white water crashing on the rocks. He didn’t realize how much the ocean was missing him until now. It was his longest time out of the water for the last 2 years. The motorcycle trip is something in itself but the surf is one of the main reason for this leap of faith in the unknown.

 

 

Again, he didn’t know where he’ll sleep that night. But, Jeremy, one of the kids who run the hostel attached to the restaurant he parked beside, took care of that. He offered him a dorm bed for some 10 bucks a night. Normally he would've tried to skim a few dollars with a camping option but the offer was hard to turn down. Lepirate was granted with an empty 8 person dorm with private bathroom and chilling prime spot with a great view of the point. The unfinished third and fourth floors of the building were giving an amazing point of view for a surf check of the different breaks. The hostel even has not one but two pools… for a ''fresh water'' (pretty foggy water, probably because of the kids swimming days in, days out) dip after a salty swim.

 

 

 

The Beast will stay parked under a palm tree for few days. He thought of taking off for deeper exploration of the nearby coast, but, with a right-hand peeler, few steps away from his bed… No need to look any further. The consistency of the waves was not has expected, nonetheless, some rides were remembering him of some good days at a certain world renown bay on the Baja. They worth, the sometimes long wait between two sets and the on/off crowd. They just go on and on, a normally steep take off over the rocks which shoulder into a weak, mushy channel section then a fast and racing section where the sand bar will create either a small barrel section or a ramp for aerial attempts. So many time he ended up hitting a rock or flying off the lip and landing in an air bubble that will bring him straight on the sandy bottom of the shore break.

 

 

In the lineup, he met a few other french Canadian travelers. After a surf, chatting over some ‘’Pupusas’’ (some sort of stuff pancakes with cheese, beans, and jalapenos), they end up figuring out that they have a common friend back in Québec. No matter how far you are, you’ll always end up meeting someone, who know someone that you know. Sometimes, un-expectably, even just bump into a long time friend…(did happen many times already) The world can at some point be compared to a really big, country town, where at some point you get to know everyone and everyone gets to know you (especially if you are an avid traveler).

 

 

The surf started to fade away after 4 days. It was time to say goodbye to his new friends which were heading to Guatemala and he pointed his bike southward… At this time of the year, Central American beaches are not really renown for good surf on the Pacific coast. He thought he might get a better chance of scoring quality waves on the Caribbean coast… Lepirate had once read a book about a surfer, traveling in a rig from the states down to Costa Rica in search of an old friend. He ended up in a small Caribbean side pueblo, where some epic waves were firing during that period of the year. Let's check it out...

 

  

 

 

 

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